Arrived into Vegas late afternoon and got a transfer to my hotel. The bus driver commented that the weather was going to be sunny but mild for the weekend, so only 25-28 degrees C. Unfortunately the nights were going to be cold, and might go below 20 degrees C. Somehow I felt the coat on my lap wasn't going to be used for a while. Las Vegas airport is basically on the main strip, yet it still took 45mins to get to the hotel; that's how much traffic there is in a Friday afternoon. So walking would be the best way to get around.
So, I was staying at Caesar's, the "exclusive" hotel that only has 3000 rooms (compared to 4000-6000 of most hotels on the strip). The rates were fairly reasonable, but it took me 5mins to realise why: the money you've paid provides you a bed and 4 walls. If you want anything else, you'll pay. Big time. The main bars and clubs on the strip have a strict clothing policy (more than stating you must be wearing some), so a quick shower and change was required then I hit the strip.
All the hotels are connected by walkways and flyovers, so its easy to hop between them. First stop was the Ballagio, one of 2 5* hotels on the strip. Each hotel has gimmicks and free attractions to get you through the door and spending money. At the Ballagio, its the fountains. This made up for the lack of bonfire night in the US; they combined music and lighting to make a true spectacle. I then gradually made my way down past Paris, Ireland, Monte Carlo (see, gimmicks) to the "cheap and cheerful" part of the strip. Like any major tourist destination, there were tacky souvenir shops and cheap supermarkets and food courts. I quickly realised this was the 1 part of Vegas I could afford to eat. It was still a mark up on Seattle; Starbucks was double the price. At this point I should note that the price of Starbucks is the best metre stick (or yard stick on this side of the pond) for the cost of living.
Next stop was New York, where the gimmick was a 200ft high roller coaster. It was an interesting ride, mainly cause you did a heartline roll over a crowded bar. I then discovered my favourite bar in the US; Coyote Ugly. If you've seen the film you get the idea.
Drinking was expensive, beer was $8-10 for a 250ml bottle. Hence most people when for the other option, slush cocktails. You had the choice of 36 fl oz, half a yard or a yard. Hmm, a yard of margarita; never again!
Saturday started with a quick shuttle bus back to the airport, followed by a 3 hour helicopter ride to the Grand Canyon. Saw the Hoover Dam on the way out, then passed into the Canyon and down to a landing strip for a champagne lunch. Managed to persuade the pilot to show me his smoking skills on the way back by "buzzing" the observation deck at the edge of the canyon. We then got a ride down the strip and back to the airport. I always knew that the strip was a mirage in the middle of the desert, but I didn't realise how big the rest of the city is, and how trashy the strip is in daylight.
Back on the strip and I decided to head to Venice and see what the Vegas branch of Madame Tussauds had offer. Whilst there were a few rooms which were very "Americanised", the figures are scarily realistic. It also allowed me to kill time whilst not spending money. During the day on the strip, there is basically only 1 thing you're expected to do; shop. I've never seen so many designer shops, plus posh antique stores and cigar makers.
The "freebie" show as Caesar's is a really odd exhibition about the fall of Atlantis. Tropicana, on the other hand, did an all singing, all dancing pirate burlesque show. Guess which one had the larger attendance.
My first victory of the evening was to find a casino that had a suitably low minimum bet ($5). The key to this: don't go to the hotels. So I played roulette for a couple of hours, and ended up $300 better. Second victory, I knew when to quit. I have to say the casinos scared me. Ordinary people were betting $100, losing and thinking nothing of it. Elderly people who were "members" of the gabling scene could simply put a card in a slot machine and play for days. When I came to check out on Sunday morning the casino floor was still packed, with people chosen to drink a bud with their breakfast.
Another trip via Phoenix and I was back in cold damp Seattle. 1 thing about US domestic flying, you're allowed 1 carry on bag no bigger than a small suitcase and 1 "personal item" ie a rucksack. So what happens: airlines overbook flights, first half of the passengers get on, fill the overhead bins and the rest have to check bags in, thus plane leaves late. This happened on all 4 flights I was on, plus all the flights I saw boarding. You'd think the airlines would twig something wasn't working.
To summarise, Vegas is like Disney for kids but with one disturbing difference. When you're a kid a Disney, you can gaze in awe at the sights and take in all the magic, blissfully unaware at the small fortune its costing your parents to be there. In Vegas, you're reminded repeatedly how much its costing you to be there.
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